How to shift gears

In order to change gears, the back wheel must be turning and the rider must be pedalling, so that the chain can be moved to the next gear. If shifting up, keep pedalling forward, but with no force and slower than the speed you will be pedalling in the gear you are shifting into. If shifting down, pedal with no force and slightly slower than you are pedalling. Derailleur gears can actually be changed under load, though gear changes can be slower and with unpleasant crunching noises that I hate. It might conceivably be advantageous to do this when racing (something I never do), and I have had to change under load when a gear or two away from the desired gear off-road, but to the echoing remnants of my mind, changing under load is even worse than lycra. And once, when young, a broke a tooth or two off my cluster when shifting under load.

Things to watch out for

When approaching a hill or a difficult bit that will require a lower gear, shift down early lest you lose too much speed and can’t shift. You do run the risk of being in too low a gear, but tough. Hub gears are better in this situation.

Cross-chaining – gears to use. L1, L2, L3. M1 to M7 (M8 if for short time), H3 to H8 (H2 occasionally). The faster gears in low will wear the chain, and L8 will also wear the smallest cluster sprocket rather quickly.

There’s more. Get info on how to pedal your chain back on and stuff in Part 3.